As a student in the Lehigh In Prague summer program, Robert “Lem” Lemery ’07 developed a business presentation on what it would take to own and operate a bar and nightclub in a burgeoning European hot spot. Speaking with owners and servers gave him insight into what’s required to start, stand out, and succeed in a hospitality business. His takeaways planted some of the seeds for River Arts District Brewing Company, the brewery and taproom he established in Asheville, North Carolina, last year.
Discovering a Passion
Not long after Lemery graduated from Lehigh with a marketing degree, the Great Recession hit. He lost his job after a year as an account executive due to the “last in, first out” rule. Although he landed a similar position six weeks later, he fell victim to the poor economy again after eight months.
But those difficult experiences turned out to be blessings in disguise. “I took some time discovering what it is I like to do,” Lemery says.
He started home brewing beer as a hobby, something he had learned from a fraternity brother at Lehigh. He liked it so much that he enrolled in online beer courses. He was then accepted for an internship at a small brewery in New Jersey, called Cricket Hill, where he assisted a brewer in “all steps of the brewing process from grain to glass.”
“The writing was on the wall as far as getting myself into the craft beer world,” he says. “What I found out through the course work is that I really enjoy the scientific side of things. In the internship, I enjoyed the physical work and seeing the fruits of my labor.”
Learning the Ropes
Lemery’s father, mother, and brother had been entrepreneurs, so the drive to start his own business was in his blood. “It felt natural to me,” he says. “Working for myself and being in charge of my own products was always the goal.”
But first, he had more learning to do. After the internship, he seized the opportunity to work under famous brewmaster Garrett Oliver at Brooklyn Brewery in 2011. Lemery started as a cellarman and packaging operator, a position involving the cold-side steps of the brewing process, such as monitoring beer density, filtering, and yeast husbandry. He worked his way up to head cellarman and then to brewer.
“What I learned in so much of my early career was process,” says Lemery. “Do as you’re trained, and once you know what you’re doing, think of it through a different lens. See if you can save time or materials for the same results or hopefully, improve the results.”
Lemery moved to Asheville with his wife in 2016, taking a job as pub brewer at Wicked Weed Brewing. After 15 months, he became head pub brewer and innovation manager, overseeing all pub brewing operations, including creating new beer recipes, adjusting existing recipes, sourcing ingredients, and managing equipment maintenance.
Opening the Brewery
With extensive experience under his belt, Lemery was ready to strike out on his own. He left Wicked Weed in November 2019 with the idea of opening a brewery within a year or so. However, COVID-19 and the accompanying construction delays pushed River Arts District Brewing Company’s debut to May 2023.
For his location, Lemery rehabilitated a 100+-year-old stone mason’s workshop. Most of the materials in the 1,600-square-foot taproom are original, refurbished, or repurposed from other areas of the building. Outside, customers can sit on the deck or in the beer garden. The business won an award from the local preservation society for adaptive reuse.
“There’s a lot of character in this building,” says Lemery. “Nine times out of 10, when customers voice their opinion, they say they feel comfortable here. The atmosphere and experience are just as good as the product.”
The experience is enhanced with a varied selection of entertainment such as live music, open mics, trivia nights, a Nerd Nite speaker series, and more. A rotation of food trucks fills the gap of not having in-house food service, which Lemery chooses not to offer due to the hassles it would bring.
Most importantly, 14 beers on tap comprise a dynamic draft list that includes modern, classic, and international styles. It currently includes one-time selections like the Appalachiosaurus and Stream of Conscience Irish Red Ale; seasonal beers such as the Lucha Libre Mexican lager and the Bug Juice Berliner weisse; and year-round offerings like Centerfold IPA and Glamour Muscles hazy IPA.
Lemery isn’t shy about using fruit, spices, and non-traditional brewing ingredients. “Each beer has something slightly unique,” he says. “If you come here, you’ll find something you like.”
Temporary Setback
The most difficult moment in Lemery’s journey happened on July 19 when a flood put five feet of water in his building’s lower level. This knocked out the draft systems and compromised the beer cooler, among other issues, which meant the business couldn’t serve beer and had to close temporarily while focusing on cleanup and repairs.
“The community, including local brewers and technicians as well as local residents, have all pitched in to help,” Lemery says. “It has been incredibly heartbreaking but also heartwarming.”
Looking Ahead
Lemery says there’s “tons of room for growth” on site with space for another 100 people in a second building that could be rehabilitated. He could also increase his distribution beyond the local area. If all goes well, Lemery foresees opening a taproom in another location.
Meanwhile, he’ll continue to relish creating beer recipes and watching satisfied customers.
“The feedback is overwhelmingly positive,” he says. “What I like most about this is the short time from product creation to customer response.”
